Planning

Thinking about a trip to Africa? Don't know where to start? Here are some suggestions for a newbie like me. You want to start this process 12-18 months out.

Even More Mara Pics

Pretty much every animal can be found in the Masai Mara:

More Mara Pics

Lots of cats in the Masai Mara:

More Rwanda Pics

About a hundred people helping to pick crops from a field one morning:

More Gorilla Pics

Click here to view movie of mountain gorillas

Newborn baby gorilla:

Mountain Gorilla Trek

I'll skip a description of my first day in Rwanda, because it was an emotional, heartbreaking experience, and it feels wrong to detail it here. After the genocide in 1994, this is a country still reeling from the trauma, and just about everyone you meet was personally affected. Many of the guides and people I met are in their 30s, so they were children or teens when it happened. But you know what? Rwandans are beautiful, resilient people determined to heal as a country, and are doing many impressive and thoughtful things to rebuild, heal and move on to a new future they are all proud of. The country is spotless, and the roads are better than anything in the US. I walked away with a great appreciation for the Rwandans.

In the mountains between Rwanda, Uganda and the Congo live the last remaining mountain gorillas, the same ones made famous by Dian Fossey. You can hike up and visit them. First, you need to purchase a permit months in advance. It's expensive and hard to get, but that money is going towards a whole army of trackers, guides and security, and conservation efforts.

Masai Mara

The piece de resistance of the safari: the Masai Mara. The most wildlife, game drive spotter and drivers were a notch above. Not much time, so some photos for now, more to come:

Cheetahs: 

More Samburu Pics

Lots of amazing elephants playing in the river...

Samburu Intrepids

Samburu is in the center of Kenya, so north of the other places I'll visit. Hilly, scrubby landscape reminds me of rugged parts of Southern California, like in the high desert. It's much hotter here.

Flights Between Safari Camps

You have two choices to get to safari camps: short flights on small prop planes, or drive 5-6 hours on bad roads. You can guess what I picked. Some people say driving to a camp is more authentic. I say once you're at a camp you spend 4-5 hours every day off-roading in a jeep while on game drives, so you're already getting the experience.

There are a few airlines that have scheduled flights to all the popular safari areas. My first flight was with Yellowwings, the rest with Safari Link. Your tour operator arranges it and it's part of your overall cost. Your camp will drive you to and from the airports, and they know your itinerary.

More Amboseli Pics

This pic is from the first day, just driving in from the airstrip. It's a newborn giraffe, if you look carefully you see the umbilical cord still attached.

First amazing day on safari, part 2

At the camp they had a store selling handicrafts from the nearby Masai village. This particular camp had a rustic gift shop in a wooden hut, run by four Masai. Hundreds of intricately beaded things, mostly bracelets. 

At 4:00 we drove to a nearby Masai village. We were greeted by 5-6 men, all wearing the same red plaid capes, skirts, and lots of beaded jewelry. They walked with us into the camp, and greeted by a welcome song by the whole village (adults and small kids, older kids were at school). Everyone (male and female) has shaved heads.

First amazing day on safari, part 1

There's not much downtime, and wifi is scarce, so I'm skipping around on this blog. As I type this it's Friday, September 15th, and I'm on a tiny prop plane from Amboseli to Nairobi to Samburu. Let's start with Wednesday, September 13th, my first full day out in the bush. It was the most amazing day ever.

After narrowly dodging a lumbering ostrich on the dirt runway, we landed at 8:00 am at a lonely airstrip near Amboseli in the Selenkey Conservancy  (a private area owned by the Masai, only Porini camps can stay / drive there). This is in southern Kenya, at the foot of Mt. Kilimanjaro (which is across the Tanzanian border). The six passengers disembarked the Cessna and looked around the empty landscape of orange dirt and barren shrubs. Two Gamewatchers / Porini jeeps arrived ten minutes later, taking three of us to one Porini camp (Porini Amboseli), the rest to another Porini camp.

Nairobi National Park

Hotel breakfast was packed with North American and Europeans, all on their way to various safaris.  A hum of excitement.

Picked up by Gamewatchers driver in a 4 wheel drive jeep. Driver Moses, very engaging. He said I packed very light "especially for a lady". (Yet I barely stayed within the 33 lb total limit for all bags - this limit is set by the smaller aircraft between camps - so what are these other chicks doing?) We had about an hour in the car as he crazily navigated Nairobi traffic. He invited me to ask him anything. So I did.

Nairobi - First Night in Africa

A five hour flight seems so easy, lol. Flying over the African continent at dusk... it looked so peaceful. Rolling hills, an endless sunset on the horizon, and no lights or buildings or roads. Until you get to Nairobi, a city of 4 million. 

Only my flight was arriving in customs/immigration, and I'll politely call it chaotic. Overhead signs bore no connection to the actual lines (you know, the different lines for Kenyan citizens, have a visa already, need a visa, etc). Passengers tried different lines and compared notes, we switched lines multiple times based on the latest rumors. Finally it was my turn, and I made it through. The even better part is they did not inspect my bags - I was worried because a week ago Kenya banned possession of plastic bags (but unlike when San Jose did it by restricting when merchants give out bags, Kenya is doing it by banning possession of bags). But the internet was unclear if that also meant ziploc bags - like the kind you need for airport security. I had multiple ziploc bags for various suntan lotions etc (gotta have 50 spf at the equator!) and was prepared to play dumb.

Was met by a representative of the tour company (Gamewatchers), and driven to the Eka Hotel on the outskirts of Nairobi. Already have the impression that the Kenyan people seem very warm and welcoming.

The hotel had a security gate (with a guard checking the car extensively). AND the front door to the lobby had a metal detector for me, and a separate bag scanner. (Learned later that these security measures were put in place all over Nairobi due to a terrorist incident a a mall). Quick late dinner ($13.00 including wine!), then off to a fitful sleep - jet lag and the malaria pills (which can cause crazy dreams) finally catching up to me. Not much of an impression of that first night, other than the symphony of the amazing crickets? birds? that I have not heard in years since Martinique.

Dubai

First leg of the adventure was to Dubai on Emirates. Very very nice, but very very long. 15.5 hours, my longest flight ever. I used miles for Business Class, a wise investment. First and Business class are up on a second story, so it seemed quieter. Had my own private cocoon next to the window, with a seat that converted to a flat bed. Didn't get much sleep, because, oddly, some woman kept having nightmares, so every hour she would scream, I kid you not. So not only would that wake me up but I'd be on full alert. Flying in I was watching the flight path and we were flying over exotic cities like Tehran, that's pretty cool. 

Dubai airport was huge, empty, modern, nicest airport I have ever seen. Out of there in 20 minutes, and that was all walking, barely a pause for immigrations and customs.

Itinerary is Final!

This site will be my trip blog (similar to the live blog I did for Italy). To get notifications of blog posts (email or RSS), use one of the subscription options on the right. 

In the meantime, here is the itinerary for September 2017. Hopefully, September is a great time of year to visit, as the "Great Migration" of animals will be in Kenya. This is a classic "safari", glamping-style. The last part of the trip will be to Rwanda to visit mountain gorillas, same area as Gorillas in the Mist. Much of the narrative comes from the tour operator, with my added commentary in italics. 

Enjoy!

Days 1-3: Flights to Africa
Flights SFO to Nairobi
There are no direct flights from the US - you connect via Europe or the Middle East. Total hours: 21+ hours - yikes!

Day 3:  Nairobi, Kenya
We will be waiting for you when your flight arrives Nairobi.  A transfer is provided to Eka hotel.

Day 4: Nairobi, Kenya 
Breakfast is included and then we will pick you up and take you Nairobi Tented camp.  A game drive is included in Nairobi National Park, lunch, and transportation to the Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage in time for the 5PM special entry.

Orphan Esampu, who I have "adopted" and will meet 

I will meet the orphan baby elephant Esampu (read the story, it's quite sad), who I have adopted ahead of time. Esampu was found abandoned in Amboseli, the area I will be visiting the next day. Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage rescues baby elephants, rehabilitates them and then releases them into the wild.

Dinner is included at Nairobi Tented camp.

Day 5:  Amboseli, Kenya
Early morning transfer included to Nairobi Wilson airport.  A flight (35 minutes) is included to the first camp. Your guide will meet you when your flight arrives.  Start looking for wildlife right away.  Lunch at the camp followed by an escorted walk with Maasai warriors to a village to get an insight into their fascinating culture and way of life. Overnight stay at Porini Amboseli safari camp.

Amboseli is a great place to see large herds of elephants up close, lions, cheetahs, huge troops of baboons, and hyenas!  Photographers love taking photos of snowcapped Mt. Kilimanjaro in the background with animals filling the foreground!

In Selenkay conservancy, enjoy exclusive wildlife viewing away from crowds where the guides are allowed to drive off-road to get you closer to the wildlife.

Day 6: Amboseli, Kenya
After an early breakfast, your guide will take you to Amboseli National Park for a morning game drive within the Park to see the elephants at close quarters, followed by a picnic lunch. In the afternoon you will return to Porini Camp for a rest and then an evening game drive in Selenkay Conservancy, ending with a sundowner at a scenic spot. Return to Amboseli Porini Camp for dinner after which there will be a night game drive using a spotlight to seek out some of the nocturnal animals such as aardvarks (antbears), serval cats, bat-eared foxes and possibly even the elusive leopard. Overnight Porini Camp.
     
Day 7:  Laikipia/Samburu, Kenya
Early breakfast and then your guide takes you into Amboseli park and on to the airstrip to fly to Samburu, arriving by 1 pm for lunch at the Samburu Intrepids, where you will stay for 2 nights. Afternoon game drive in Samburu National Reserve.

Day 8:  Laikipia/Samburu, Kenya
Game drives in Samburu National park.  This is a very beautiful area where huge herds of elephants are common, lots of monkeys (even around the camp), and also a great area to look for leopards!  The “special five animals” (Orynx, blue-necked Ostrich, grevy’s zebra, reticulated giraffe, and gerenuk) are common in this area.

Tour operator suggests keeping your tent door super secure when you are out - because monkeys will come in!

Day 9: Masai Mara, Kenya
Early morning game drive and then after breakfast you will fly from Samburu to the Masai Mara to stay the next 2 nights at Porini Lion Camp. You’ll be met upon arrival and start wildlife viewing right away, on the way to Porini Lion camp. Lunch, and afternoon game drive. Later, take a night time game drive looking for nocturnal wildlife.  Overnight stay at Porini Lion.

This is a great area for lions, cheetahs & leopards!
Note: the Porini Lion area has the highest density of lions in Africa

Escape from the tourist trail and opt for a more authentic safari adventure when choosing your Maasai Mara Accommodation. The award-winning, eco-friendly Porini Lion Camp offers a unique opportunity to take guided walks with Maasai Warriors and experience day and night game drives within the Olare Motorogi Conservancy – a pristine and exclusive 33000-acre wilderness set aside for wildlife conservation and low-impact tourism.

Porini Lion Camp is located in unique and stunning setting on the banks of the seasonal Ntiakatiak River within the Olare Motorogi Conservancy. This location is home to an abundance of animals including the Mara’s renowned Big Cats.

There is unsurpassed game-viewing within the conservancy due to its unspoiled natural state and the Porini Lion Camp - with just ten tents – ensures guests have a genuine “away from it all” experience deep in the African bush.

• At Porini Amboseli & Porini Lion, day AND night time game drives are included.
• Off-road driving advantages at Porini Amboseli and Porini Lion get you closer to the wildlife and away from crowds.
• Walks with Maasai warriors are optional but included at Porini Amboseli and Porini Lion.

Day 10:  Masai Mara, Kenya
A full day in the Masai Mara reserve with a picnic lunch when you can expect to find lions as well as many of the other species found in the Mara which include leopard, cheetah, hyena, elephant, rhino, topi, eland, wildebeest, zebra, hippo and buffalo.

Day 11: Masai Mara, Kenya / Nairobi Kenya
Breakfast and a walk with Maasai warriors or early morning game drive and then look for wildlife on the way to the airstrip.  A flight back to Nairobi Wilson airport is included.  Upon arrival, we will take you to Eka hotel.  Check in to your room and relax or use the pool.  Overnight stay at Eka hotel.

Day 12:  Kigali, Rwanda
A transfer is included from Eka hotel to Nairobi Int’l airport where you can check in for your onward flight to Rwanda.

Rwanda
You’ll be met upon arrival at Kigali Int’l airport, Rwanda.
A Kigali city tour is included.  After an included lunch, travel with your guide on one of Earth’s most scenic drives toward Volcanoes National Park.
Overnight stay at Mountain View Gorilla Lodge.
   
Local entertainers are usually at Mountain View Gorilla Lodge, weather permitting, before dinner.
Note from Julie:  I have stayed here several times and really enjoyed it.  There is a fireplace in the room which they will light to keep you toasty at night.  In the morning, wake up to views of volcanoes!

Day 13:  Rwanda 
Breakfast and then Gorilla trekking.
Upon sighting the gorillas, you will stay with them for a magical hour as they go about their daily life, feeding, playing, resting; raising their young. Coming face to face with a giant silverback must truly be one of the greatest wildlife experiences on earth!
 
Lunch and then afternoon visit the “Twin Lakes” Ruhondo and Bulera. Twin lakes, Burera and Ruhondo are real gems you must not miss.
Their deep blue water is surrounded by high hills. From these come immense waterfalls that decorate volcanoes in a spectacular way.
Through splendid excursions in the "land of a thousand hills", you discover sublime colors, and unforgettable beauty. Meals and overnight at Mountain Gorilla View Lodge

Day 14: Rwanda
Volcanoes National Park – Kigali
Breakfast at the hotel.  Then, time allowing, your guide can take you to a locals handicraft market on the way to Kigali airport.  Check in for your onward flight home.

Day 14-15: Fly Home
Kigali to SFO